Thursday, October 27, 2011

Lord, I was born a ramblin' man


Just to give everyone a quick run down of upcoming travel plans…

My fall break is this coming week so I have a week off from classes and I’m going to spend it doing a bit of traveling.

I’m starting off the week in the Northern Ireland (so I officially have to cross a border, get new money, and enter the UK). A group of us are heading to Derry/Londonderry. It is typically called Derry by people who support the Republic and Londonderry by people loyal to the UK.  Derry supposedly has one of the biggest Halloween celebrations in Ireland. We have rented a cottage for a few days and are looking forward to all the festivities.

(Halloween in Derry ends with a huge firework show over the river in the center of town. This is from Derry last year)


After a few days in Derry I’m planning on heading over to Belfast for a day or two to see the sights of the city and drink a few pints with friends.

(Northern Ireland. Londonderry and Belfast-here I come!)

I’ll head back south to immediately turn around and fly to Edinburgh Scotland for the final part of the week.

So I’m not flying anywhere too far away but I’m excited to see a few new sights.

I also put the deposit down today for a surf trip to Morocco the final week in January. My middle school dreams are finally coming true! This is one of those trips that I don't will ever really seem real. Surfing in Morocco? Haha really? Yes really. 

I’ll be away from the blog for a while, but I’ll be sure to come home with lots of good updates!

PS. I’m living out another dream of mine on Halloween by being Penny Lane from Almost Famous. I have a friend with an equal love for Almost Famous so he is going to be William.  Life is good.

 (William and Penny. But I will not/nor will I ever wear a half top)
 cheers,
 Chelsea 

Longford Women's Link


I got to travel out from Maynooth last week with some of my classmates. We headed to Longford, Co. Longford to the Longford Women’s Link.  To say the least, it was inspiring.

The Longford Women’s Link is a non-profit situated in a rural town. One of the statistics that stuck with all of us is that the town of Longford has 7,000 residents, 5,000 of which are unemployed. The LWL founders realized the heavy impact such financial circumstances were having on the women of Longford and decided to create the program to provide a variety of resources to the local community. 

A part of the work at LWL that I really appreciated because of the rural work of the SCFP is that the LWL provides transport for the women who are participating in programs. Not only transport but they also provide childcare!  I'll say it again-childcare! And affordable (or sometimes free) childcare. I think the price and availability of childcare is a thing so often underestimated for single moms. (thanks to my mom for all the money spent over the years on that)

Once the women are at LWL’s facility they can participate in a variety of classes. The program is effectively functioning as a junior college in ways by providing technical training programs as well as personal development classes like sewing and entrepreneurship. 

Their childcare and educational programs would be impressive alone, but that is not all they do. They also serve as a resource center for women experiencing domestic violence and they have organized a women’s political group that makes sure the women of Longford are considered in the political decision making process.

All of that programming is impressive in its own right, but I walked away equally as impressed with their professional approach.

The real dilemma at the core of most small non-profits (Longford functions on 1.2 million a year, which for the breadth of their services is impressive) is that non-profits and the people who usually run them are built on an emotional appeal. Yet, it takes a very different ethos (or at least a lot of people feel it’s a very different ethos) to constantly market and fundraise for a non-profit. Self-promotion is a necessity of survival in the non-profit world, yet we are programmed to think that self-promotion takes away from the “do-good” nature of the work.

What I really liked about Longford Women’s Link was that they were honest and clear in every part of their message. The group of women who presented to us didn’t waste the whole time talking about the problems of Longford (which is such an easy hole to fall into-I actually found myself doing it in a class presentation about TALENT in Tallahatchie County the other day). They quickly said the problem, then clearly told us how they were working to fix it and the results they have seen so far. They knew their mission and could easily tell any group about it, which resulted in my class being able to walk away and repeat exactly what we heard. 

I got the impression that the staff at LWL had the perfect balance between this common problem of good work v. self promotion in non-profits. But towards the end of the session the executive director talked about their recent push to start fundraising (their multi-year grant is coming to an end) and how it has been a difficult mind-set to adjust to. She talked about how she just wasn't good at asking. I kind of smiled to myself and thought that this problem really does affect even what seem to be the best non-profits. Sure you get through them, and I have faith that LWL will, but they always exist to some extent. 

(and if you feel like giving a little, I know it would be greatly appreciated) 

Getting exposed to different non-profits really gets my mind turning about what I want to do when I get back to Mississippi...

cheers,
 Chelsea 


Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Listen and Watch


To add to what I read this past week, I’ve listened and watched a few “Irish” things that I wanted to share.

First, I stumbled upon an Irish band named Tupelo (and with a name like that how could I not want to listen more). Some of their songs remind me of Old Crow Medicine Show and have a modern bluegrass feel. It would be easy to listen to most of their songs and maybe think they were from Tupelo, Mississippi but then Irishman comes on and it becomes clear that they are from Dublin. At the end of Irishman they list the names of the 14 men executed by the British for playing a role in the Easter Uprising in 1916. While the uprising itself wasn’t widely popular at the time, the way the men were executed served as a national rallying cry to bring the nation together to fight for independence. Some of their other songs have hints of Irish identity if you listen closely (like slang words and themes about land ownership) but it's easy to miss those subtle clues so sometimes I listen and picture Oxford. 

Second, I went to a documentary showing last night on campus for The Pipe. In the west of Ireland Shell oil and gas company has been trying to build a pipeline from drilling off the coast to a refinery on land for over a decade now. It is really rare now for companies to refine gas on land, its usually done at sea where the drilling happens. The pipeline that would run to the refinery would run directly across people's land and homes. The pipe would contain a really high pressured gas that would be without the add-in chemicals that make gas smell (so you can know when there is a leak). Overall, it seems to me like a really high risk sort of operation that could put a lot of people in danger. The people of Co. Mayo and particularly Westport (the small town where the pipe is being built) have been fighting tooth and nail to stop the pipe from being built. Currently, the drilling and the pipe up to the land are complete as well as the refinery, so now the final stage is completing the pipe that will cross through the town. 


Westport is on the west of Ireland, almost directly across the country from Dublin but a little to the north


The documentary shows the struggle of the movement and the town over how to unite and fight the big oil company. After the documentary finished the audience heard from the spokesperson for Dublin Shell to Sea, which has become the national movement to support the work in Westport in getting Shell to relocate the pipeline. During the discussion after the documentary, it became clear that their is a much larger national debate around who owns the rights to Ireland's oil and gas reserves and where the profit really goes. There has also been a lot of controversy around the Shell to Sea movement, and I think a lot of it comes from organizational leadership. 

But controversy aside, I think the real thing to think about is would anyone want an oil pipeline in their backyard? Especially without even being asked about it. Many of the local people's demands of Shell are not radical. Several people interviewed in the documentary say they still want Shell to make their profit, they are just asking that the pipeline be moved to an uninhabited patch of land (which on the west coast of Ireland that is easy to come by). 

As we think about the human and environmental impact of BP's Deep Water Horizon Oil Spill, I get chills to think about what sort of impact would happen when the drilling is being done closer to land and the oil is being pumped across people's backyards. 

It's a scary battle that is taking place in one small town in Ireland and unfortunately, it's not getting enough national or international attention.

Thank yall for reading! Hope all is well!
 cheers,
 Chelsea 

#3 What I Read This Week


For a few weeks now I’ve been saying I was going to post about Roddy Doyle and now that I actually am, I can also say I will be posting about him on this blog more throughout the year.

I love Roddy Doyle.

That might be extreme. I have only read one of his books, but I enjoyed every page and am anxious to read more of his work.

The Commitments is one of Doyle’s more popular pieces (the film adaption might play a big part of that). The Commitments is one of Doyle's Barrytown Trilogy, a set that follows a group of characters in north Dublin's working class neighborhood of Barrytown. 




The Commitments are the hardest working band in the World, the saviors of Soul, Dublin’s very own soul group covering songs from Otis Redding, James Brown and Sam Cooke to name a few.  Jimmy Rabbitte is their manager who along with Jimmy “The Lips” Fagan, a washed up trumpet player, lead the band into small town fame before their break up after a few shows.

The whole thing is witty and entertaining. It also helps if you have an appreciation for soul music. There is an especially great scene when Jimmy “The Lips” Fagan is concerned about the sax player in the band because he has started listening to jazz.

Jimmy rants on “Soul is the people’s music. Ordinary people making music for ordinary people….Soul is democratic. Jazz is intellectual music. It’s anti-people music. It’s abstract.”

The wit of the piece really emerges during different scenes of the band trying to apply “soul” to Dublin. The best example is their biggest hit: a version of Night Train that they adapt to include stops on the Irish Rail. 

If you like soul music or working class Ireland comedy this is a must read. And even if you don’t like either of those things, you could always watch the movie.

cheers,
 Chelsea

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Weekend Update


Let me just start with this, I’ve been loving my life lately. Really really loving it.

I enjoy my course and am learning a lot but I don’t find it academically overwhelming so I’m left with lots of free time to learn about other topics on my own, spend time with friends and travel. I just don’t think my life could get much better. (the one thing that could happen is I could transplant all my good friends and loving family from home over to Ireland) I guess I just wanted to put a formal statement out into the world wide web to let everyone know how much fun I’m having and how grateful I am to be here.

Now on to my weekend update. Last weekend I got to spend the second weekend in a row with all the other Mitchell scholars. I feel confident that if you put all 12 of us in a room for an extended period with no other distractions we would have a blast. But we’ve never been put in that situation because the Alliance has kept us busy with fun activities the past two weekends.

I think this weekend took the cake. On Friday we had another great day of meals while we talked with several different people about Irish politics and culture. After our day of discussion we got ready for our formal welcome to Ireland (I like to think of it as my Irish debutante) at the US Ambassador’s home in Dublin.

The Ambassador (Dan Rooney-owner of the Steelers) was not in town but he lent his home in Phoenix Park.  Phoenix Park is a huge piece of property in the middle of Dublin that is kind of likeCentral Park except the park is surrounded by walls and there is a heard of deer roaming around.  The only homes in Phoenix Park are the President of Ireland’s and the US Ambassador’s (say much about our relationship?).  

And to add in a nice Catholic fact, Phoenix Park is home to a huge cross. The cross was put up when Pope John Paul II came to Ireland to conduct mass in 1979. It is estimated that over 1 million people attended the open air mass in the park.  To put it into perspective the Republic of Ireland is only about 4 million people…

At the party we were introduced as a class to several dozen supporters of the US-Ireland Alliance from all over the country and from all walks of life. I spent the majority of the party talking with a woman from Cork who loved white wine and my southern accent.  And I equally loved her love for white wine and her accent.

After the Ambassador’s home we all got pizza at a place near the hotel. For those who could manage to wake up, we boarded a bus early the next morning and traveled to Glendalough in Co. Wicklow for a hike above Glendalough Valley.

I was terrified of the hike. I had a traumatic experience one summer on a Lott Institute trip in South Korea. Our Korean tour guide made it seem like we were going for a leisurely nature walk, and after several hours we had ascended a mountain and were all on the verge of death (a lot of the near death feeling had to do with some underage American, legal Korean drinking done the night before).  I just kept having awful flash backs to the hike in Korea and thought this might turn out the same. While the Glendalough hike was not as simple as a nature walk, I think I was better prepared physically than for the one in Korea and I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed spending the day outside hiking on trails and climbing over rocks. After about a 4 hour hike, we made it back to the bus and headed for a quick lunch.

the start of the trail. most of the trail is made from old piece of railroad and you start out with 600 steps


view from the top. it felt a little higher than it looks



cheesy tourist shot in the valley


 When we got back to Dublin we changed for a concert on Saturday night at the Olympia Theater with James Vincent McMorrow. McMorrow sounded a lot like Brett Dennen for any reader out there who might be a Dennen listener. I was surprised at how much McMorrow came alive as the night progressed. It was obvious that on his first song he was nervous but as the show went on and his glass of red wine emptied, he began to connect with the audience and most of the us walked away as a fans. He was also endearing as he repeatedly told the audience how much it meant to him to be playing back to back sold out shows in his favorite hometown music venue. Check him out. I like him better live than his recordings, so if you ever get a chance to see him, do so.


We ended the weekend with our now traditional few hour-long breakfast. After that I was back to Maynooth to finish up some homework and get ready for another week of reading, discussion, learning, and travel.  

More blog posts coming tomorrow
cheers,
 Chelsea 

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Weekend: In Review

This weekend I had a special weekend of events planned through the US-Ireland Alliance...

Kenneth Feinberg was in Ireland to give a special lecture at Trinity College so the USIA worked it out that all the Mitchell Scholars would get to spend some time with Ken and his wife DeDe. 

Ken Feinberg is a world famous mediator. It's really crazy when you here about what all he has been involved with in the US, it comes close to every defining event of the last decade. An interesting thing to note is that Mr. Feinberg served as Ted Kennedy’s Chief of Staff in the late 70s (USIA connections are everywhere).

Just to run down the list, Ken Feinberg has run compensation funds for victims of 9/11, the Virginia Tech massacre and Deep Water Horizon (he is still running this fund currently.) A funny note about his work with BP, there have been several claims filed from Ireland, mostly by restaurants who claimed dependency on selling the best shrimp in the World. And as a proud Mississippian, we all know the best shrimp in the world are Gulf shrimp.

We first heard Ken Feinberg speak on Friday for lunch in the Westbury Hotel and he talked about his work in setting the salaries of some of the top executives in the USA. As part of the bailout Congress set the standard that any cooperation taking taxpayer money would then have the salaries of their top 25 executives set by Congress. Of course Congress handed the job to Feinberg. (it turned out to not be all the companies who took money because some of the companies quickly borrowed money to pay off their debt and free themselves of the oversight).

On a different note-I live in a dorm room. I have terrible water pressure and most of the meals I eat are PB&J. Just getting to spend a night in the Westbury Hotel was a luxury.

After the lunch on Friday all of the Mitchells had a free night to spend together.  I took full advantage of the nice shower (I showered a total of 5 times from Friday to Sunday) and we all got ready to spend the night together catching up and getting to know each other better. We all had met when we interviewed for the Mitchell in Washington D.C. but for some of us it was the first time to see each other since then.

It was also my birthday, so we had special reason to celebrate! We started the night at a Tapas restaurant where I got candles and a birthday song then we moved to a brew-pub (which we had actually tasted at the craft beer festival a few weekends before). After a few pints we made a move to another pub and finally the ones still standing made it to a surprisingly fun night club.

(I also used my self timer for the first time)


Overall it was a ton of fun and I think everyone in the group was just really excited to be together! It was also nice to be able to connect on issues that all of us have faced in the move abroad. None of them are serious but we have all experienced small language barriers or different expectations in the Irish classroom and really those experiences all now seem much more manageable knowing that none of us were the only ones feeling that way.

Saturday morning we met with the Feinbergs and Trina Vargo for special tours of Kilmainham Jail and the W.B. Yeats exhibit at the National Gallery.

Kilmainham Jail was at different times the jail for almost all of Irish republican fighters until 1924 when the jail was closed. The leaders of the 1916 Uprising were housed and killed at Kilmainham. Some of the cells have name plates of the famous uprising leaders above the doors. The form of execution was a 12 man firing squad. I sounded like a redneck, but my initial thought was those boys must have been terrible shots. 


(a black cross in the yard commemorating where the men were killed who led the Easter Uprising)

(pretending to be put in jail cell. not really that funny of a joke)
PS. mom, I haven't been put in any real Irish jails. Yet...
PSS. just a joke


We took a break from the jail for a delicious lunch (probably the best food I’ve had in Ireland. But it was more what I expected from Italy). At lunch we all got more of a chance to talk to Ken Feinberg about his work.  While I think we hold different views about filing claims from the oil spill, he won me over when he said that Ole Miss might be the prettiest place he has ever seen and questioned why I would ever want to leave. Honestly, I think I more got kicked out of Oxford than really wanted to leave.  

After lunch it was off to the W.B. Yeats exhibit at the National Gallery. Yeats is to Ireland as Faulkner is to Lafayette County, Mississippi. That is a big generalization but to help put it in perspective.

Saturday night a group of the Mitchells joined together at a local bar for a pint and a late night snack of the Irish version of Johnny Rocket’s, Eddie Rocket’s.

There was never a dull conversation this weekend and I’m looking forward to getting to do it all over again in a few days when we are back in Dublin to meet the US Ambassador. Until then…

Cheers,
 Chelsea 

Self Promotion


I should have done this earlier but I want to give everyone an idea of how I got to Ireland and the organization that made this year possible. If you give me a little lee way, this side note will all come together in the next post with my weekend plans.

Just a little background, I’m in Ireland through a George Mitchell Scholarship which is run through the US-Ireland Alliance.

The USIA, for short, developed largely through the work of Trina Vargo in the late 1990s. Trina was Foreign Policy Advisor to the late Senator Ted Kennedy and played a role in the peace treaty that was reached in the North of Ireland.

I’m going to break down that last sentence a little more. If you know what all of that means you can just skip to the bottom. 

First, it's important to understand the extent of Irish immigration to the US through most of the 20th century  (a better historical timeline might be the Irish Potatoe Famine to the boom of the Celtic Tiger) Irish fled in masses from the island. There was a lack of economic growth and the Irish were hungry for jobs. For many of them they found those jobs in America.

I knew the typical American stereotypes of Irish immigration to the US (the NYPD is one that comes to mind for me) but I was really oblivious of just how massive the Irish exodus was.

While there was massive migration and Irish-Americans impacted the development of culture and life in the US in lots of different ways, I think the most important connection to the founding of the USIA revolves around Irish-Americans who became noteworthy politicians. The Kennedy family is our own version of royalty and when it comes to US-Irish relations some of the leading voices for generations (side note-Kathleen Kennedy Townsend, the eldest daughter of Robert Kennedy sat on the interview board for the Mitchell). So around the time of the USIA founding Senator Kennedy would have been influential but there were lots of other American politicians that had a special interest in Irish relations. Chris Dodd and Tip O’Neill come to the top of the list.

So the importance of a US-Irish relationship was personally important for lots of American politicans all of the same generation, but there was also another event that pushed the USIA into creation and helped the naming of the scholarship. 

So just like American history, Irish history is complicated and by no means can be explained in a blog post. I hope this just helps to explain the USIA, and not the exhaustive history of the island. So in the South of the island is the Republic of Ireland. The independence of the Republic happens in several different forms through major events from 1916-1923 (all will have to be for another blog posts).  But all those events center around the central dispute over British rule over Ireland. The agreement is reached that the south will become independent while six counties in the north stay a part of the United Kingdom (even though they have their own government). 



To add to the conflict there is a really important religious element. Traditionally people supporting the nationalist cause (to be a free state) were Catholic while those supporting the Unionist cause (to stay a part of the UK) were Protestant and the north was were the largest population of protestants lived. The tension between the two causes never really ceased from the early 20th century when the Republic was established in the south of the island. By the 1960s violence began in Northern Ireland that picked up international attention. The violence often referred to as “The Troubles” can’t really be defined like a more traditional war, but it was a war. “The Troubles” included shootings, protests, hunger strikes, bombings, and the list goes on.  The numbers vary, but it seems common to see the death toll from The Troubles between 3,000-4,000 (as I learn more I want to share more history about this in the coming months).

As part of an attempt to bring peace to the North, along with the rest of the UK, a ceasefire and peace treaty was reached in 1996 and is called the Good Friday agreement. Under President Clinton the US sent a special envoy to work with the peace treaty. US Senator George Mitchell played an important role in the compromise that was reached. (for more about George Mitchell-About George J. Mitchell)

The work of US politicians and citizens in the Northern Ireland peace process helped propel the establishment of USIA and who better to name their largest program after but the man who was at the middle of it, George Mitchell. 

Just a last note, this weekend I heard Trina Vargo speak to a group of people who all weren’t familiar with the USIA. After she gave a standard message of what they do (events, Mitchell scholars, etc.) she also said this, which I think helps summarize everything I just said…

According to Trina, there are three main areas that have historically shaped US-Irish relations.
1.     Immigration
2.     The economy
3.     The Troubles

What has happened in modern times is these three issues no longer stand like they used to. Now the Irish, just like everyone else in the World, go where they can find jobs. It's much more likely for a young Irish college grad to find a job in Australia now than it is in the US. Not to mention many of the more famous Irish-American families no longer hold the national stand that they used to (to use the examples from earlier Ted Kennedy and Tip O’Neill have passed away and Chris Dodd is no longer in the Senate). 

When it comes to the economy, during the boom years the Irish economy grew at a rate twice that of the US. Even though both countries are now in financial hard times the US no longer sees Ireland as a place that needs help.

And finally when it comes to “The Troubles” Americans also see that as a place where Ireland no longer needs “help.” Sure there is still work to be done in the North, but for now it is a safe place.

So where does that leave the future of the US and Ireland? That’s exactly what Trina Vargo is trying to find out and she is really honest when she says she doesn’t know the answer.

But one way is through the Mitchell Scholars. The ultimate goal is that we come back to the US with a new understanding of the island and translate that to our future lives in American business, politics, academia-wherever the road might take us.

So for me I’m soaking up all the history and culture that I can and beginning to think about how Ireland and the Mississippi Delta can all work together…
No answers yet, but I still have the good part of a year.

Cheers,
 chelsea